Walking in the air: Snowman craftsman Raymond Briggs's beloved Sussex trails

Date: 2024-04-16
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An exhibition of the great British illustrator’s life opens this month in Ditchling village, in the South Downs countryside that inspired him

There aren't many individuals who can assert to have witnessed a snowman soar over their residence. It might seem fantastical, but each Christmas I settle in to view The Snowman, Raymond Briggs's most cherished creation, observing as the crimson-haired lad and the plump, tangerine-nosed snowman glide over the downs encircling the hamlet where I reside before drifting above the Royal Pavilion and Brighton Pier, continuing out to the ocean.

The Snowman, akin to numerous of Briggs's creations, unfurls against a setting of the East Sussex landscapes he adored, and where he resided for over five decades. Hence, it's appropriate that the premier exhibition of his existence and oeuvre since his passing in 2022 is being hosted not in a London art gallery but at Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft, merely a couple of miles from his abode in the village of Westmeston. Genuine sketches and depictions, relics, snapshots, and framed admirer correspondence (including one from an American clergyman incensed to discover that Father Christmas featured depictions of Santa on the lavatory) furnish an unparalleled glimpse into one of Britain's preeminent illustrators.

One of the most captivating displays is Briggs's writing desk, still cluttered with all the miscellany he toiled amidst while conceiving When the Wind Blows, Fungus the Bogeyman, and Ethel and Ernest. Snapshots of him at the desk reveal the panorama he referred to as "a tremendous privilege," stretching northward across the Sussex Weald to the faint haze of Ashdown Forest in the distance. Each dawn, he traversed the tranquil footpaths and shaded bridleways that interconnect the farmers' fields to the gentle verdant hills, and mirrored this rural expanse within the pages of his tomes.

I comprehend his fondness for this serene nook of Sussex, for his pathways and meadows align with mine as well. There's a touch of wonderment about this expansive stretch of countryside wedged between the densely populated coastal stretch and the band of commuter settlements – Burgess Hill, Haywards Heath, and Crawley that reside north of Briggs' section of the national park. While the towns may be expanding, the South Downs stands between the urban sprawl like an immense emerald lung. Embark upon one of the age-old bridleways, and only the recently cultivated vineyards encroaching across the fields like soundless legions serve as testimony to the world's continual motion.

Briggs loved the downland landscapes. Grounding his work in specific places makes it feel very real
Steph Fuller, Ditchling Museum

"It's quintessentially Briggs – anchoring his creations in precise locales to impart a sense of genuine realism," remarks Steph Fuller, the director of Ditchling Museum. "His family reminisces about his profound adoration for the downland panoramas – it's truly remarkable to witness how attuned he was, how deeply he comprehended the countryside and seamlessly integrated it into his illustrations."

The brilliance of hosting the exhibition in such proximity to Briggs's residence lies in the opportunity it affords to tread in his footsteps and traverse the landscapes depicted in his works. While most visitors to this region gravitate towards the downs to amble along a segment of the South Downs Way, with the ocean glistening to the south and the hamlets of Ditchling, Westmeston, and East Chiltington – where Briggs rests – to the north of the escarpment.

I opt to meander along Lodge Hill Lane past the museum, veer right onto Boddington’s Lane, and then follow the footpath onto the gentle hill behind the village. From this vantage point, Ditchling's ancient dwellings – most notably Wings Place, bequeathed to Anne of Cleves as part of her separation from Henry VIII – and the charming main thoroughfare unfold towards the downs, the ridge of hills ascending like a verdant wave, overshadowing the residences scattered amidst the fields below. If time permits, I embark on the three-mile trek from Ditchling to East Chiltington, tracing the path of the ancient Roman thoroughfare – the Greensand Way – which once stretched from Barcombe Mills, near Lewes, to Pulborough in West Sussex.

Best of all, every stroll in this region usually concludes – or at least pauses – at one of the pristine taverns nestled along tranquil lanes. Briggs was frequently spotted at the Half Moon in Plumpton, situated directly opposite a lane leading up to the downs, or at the Bull in Ditchling, boasting its medieval, low-ceilinged bar. My personal favorite is the Jolly Sportsman in East Chiltington – a gem of a pub you'd easily miss if you weren't aware of its existence, featuring a sun-drenched, blossoming garden and refined, softly-lit dining areas.

A ramble on the downs, a pint at the pub – such straightforward joys epitomize Briggs's creations. "His narratives are finely detailed depictions of ordinary life," remarks Fuller, "yet those existences serve as the canvas for something extraordinary, whether it's a snowman springing to life or the specter of a nuclear detonation. I believe that's why his work is so adored, so uniquely captivating: it inspires us to uncover the extraordinary within the mundane, just as Briggs himself did."

Bloomin’ Brilliant: The Life and Work of Raymond Briggs runs from 27 April to 27 October at Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft.

A short break in Snowman country

Feast at The Nutmeg Tree in Ditchling, renowned for its superb midday meals, delightful coffee, and delectable pastries in its charming enclosed garden and classic tea parlor. Meanwhile, the Half Moon in Plumpton provides an array of small dishes – from Welsh rarebit to toast-topped mushrooms – alongside traditional pub favorites. For an indulgent treat, secure a reservation at the Jolly Sportsman – make sure to specify your preference for outdoor seating.

Stay The Bull has chic doubles from £143, room-only.

Walk (about 8½ miles, quite taxing) Commence your journey at Hassocks station, where the marked footpath from the parking area guides you across meadows and onto the uplands. Traverse past the Clayton Windmills (famously depicted in The Snowman) and trace the South Downs Way until you reach Ditchling Beacon. Upon crossing the road, remain along the crest, searching for the footpath marker leading downhill toward Westmeston. Proceed following the signage northward from the hamlet, traversing fields and typically muddy woodlands to reach Ditchling. Continue along Lodge Hill Lane, passing the museum and ascending towards Oldland Windmill before descending the road into Keymer village and looping back through Hassocks to return to the station.

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